The Dark History Behind the Dazzling Sacré-Coeur Basilica

Sacré- Coeur Basilica, Montmartre.

The almost-white Basilica stands atop the hill of Montmartre, attracting tourists in their millions each year. At the time it was conceived it was the highest point in Paris. However, for Parisians, that represented a victory of forces of social order over the oppressed people of the city. Here is a little glimpse into a turbulent time in Paris. 

My Paris History Tour often ends at the site of the former Tuileries Palace, and I bring up the Paris Commune. I am often met with blank faces. They have heard of the Revolution of 1789, but few have heard about the atrocities associated with the turbulent ten weeks in the spring of 1871. 

The Paris Commune of 1871 

In 1870, Napoleon III went to war with Prussia. Each battle ended in a French defeat and the Prussians besieged Paris. The French army had retreated to Versailles and Parisians, convinced that they would be lambs to the slaughter, raised funds to arm themselves with 400 cannon. The artillery was placed on the hill of Montmartre and the National Guard swelled to 350, 000. But, unexpectedly, the Prussians behaved impeccably, went home and Paris was suddenly a free city.

All was not to be well though. The army reformed and returned to the city to take control of these 400 cannon. Local women, led by 'The Red Virgin of Montmartre', blocked the army's access. Soldiers refused orders to shoot the protesters and, in a state of chaos and outnumbered by the National Guard, the army were forced to flee the city.

The Communal Council was soon elected to run the free city and a host of social reforms were announced. The Catholic Church (a loyal supporter of the state) was particularly targeted- the archbishop killed and church property was given to the people. For the ordinary folk of Paris, things were looking up. But not for too long. 

The Communards, too busy enjoying new freedoms, did not notice the reformed army approaching Paris. General MacMahon led his solders through the barricades and initiated one of the most stark massacres in Parisian history. The last stands of the Communards were in the abandoned mine tunnels under Montmartre and in Père Lachaise cemetery. 

In the period known as la semaine sanglante (Bloody Week) thousands of Communards were executed by firing squad in the Jardin du Luxembourg and Père Lachaise. Now, in the quiet cemetery, a sculpture stands to commemorate the 147 men and women who were shot here on 28th May, 1871. Some sources suggest that 20, 000 communards were shot by firing squad in the days and weeks that followed. 

And so in 1873, above the tunnels where the communards fought their last battles, the government commissioned the building of the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur. The reason for it's construction: to atone for the sins of the Communards for defying the church and killing it's archbishop. 

For the people of Paris the Sacré-Coeur therefore became a symbol of oppression. In a bid to defend themselves, feed themselves and bring equality to the city, the people were slaughtered in their thousands and then forced to pay for a building that contradicts everything they stood for. 

Over time it has become an iconic feature of the Montmartre landscape. From here you have a magical view across the city and it is the perfect place to watch the sun rise and fall. One wonders what would stand here if it were not for those brave folk who dared to make a stand. 

Peter Groark

Walkabout Paris-City Walking Tours